I finally got down to the
Lower East Side to catch up with the latest art district in New York City. I’ve
lived through Greenwich Village (my teens and twenties), Soho (my thirties),
Chelsea (my forties), Noho etc. in more recent decades. The area is supposedly
the last bastion of affordable gallery and studio space in Manhattan proper
although gentrification appears to have won another battle. In addition,
an ever-expanding Chinatown has taken
over large chunks of the area and while certainly clean and respectable, lacks the colorful
grunginess I once loved.
Anyhow, I was told to check
out the new epicenter of the New York Art world, my old stomping ground, the
Lower East Side. I was informed I wouldn’t recognize it. Truthfully, I didn’t,
and I didn’t much like what had taken its place. It was as if all the life had
been sucked out of the area; the buildings are mostly the same but the old zest
isn’t there. Even the art scene is surprisingly lifeless. The once-crowded
streets are now largely empty, even of cars (no reasonably-priced places to
park) and the jumble of tacky businesses that gave the area its character is
gone. We saw only a few fabric outlets,
(a reason for past visits); the antique (junque) stores on Allen Street have
disappeared as have the flophouses on the Bowery and their haunted clientele.
Only a handful of restaurant equipment stores that once lined the street
remain. No more “outlets’ that sell discount bags and name-brand clothing. With
few exceptions, gone are the ethnic food stores and restaurants. Even the
lively signage that once characterized the area has been cleaned up, with only
a few “ghosts” from the past still around. It was obvious, ethnic cleansing of
a cultural sort has taken place. I never thought I’d live to say this but the
Lower East Side has become “boring” and I still have the photos I took fifty
years ago to prove it.
Since the purpose of the trip
was not to revisit old haunts but to check out the latest in the New York art
scene, I am sad to report that that too was a disappointment. The only
reasonably interesting work was at the New Museum on the Bowery. And most of
that wasn’t new but done around 25 years ago. The museum featured a
multi-floor exhibit by a Chicago/LA eccentric accumulator, Jim Shaw who
specializes in collecting amateur art from thrift shops plus some oversized
cartoon-y installations of his. On the ground floor was a room full of extremely
“anxious” paintings by another Chicago artist (whose name I forget) that dates
from the ‘70s. Is this the “New” museum’s idea of cutting edge? Isn’t there
anything current they want to show? But, based on what we saw elsewhere in the
neighborhood, probably not. The only exciting exhibit we came across was by an
Aborigine artist from Australia. Talk of anxious-looking art, these win the
prize. Thousands and thousands of tiny dots in radiating patterns, but at least
well done and original. We went to a dozen galleries and frankly, I don’t even
remember what we saw.
Next we’ll try Brooklyn.
Maybe there’s something worthwhile there. One of my sons has an artist friend
called Chico MacMurtie who bought an abandoned church in Red Hook where he
builds life-size performing robots. They recently played at his wedding.
Now, that sounds interesting!
Oh we'll, life goes by and we just stand here and watch it all happen. It's a crazy world and I guess I am happy to still be able to see it boring or not. There is always something beautiful to see in NY on a sunny day. Try the HIghline. Miss you, Florence
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